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Ciudad de Oaxaca

Ciudad de Oaxaca

Driving to Oaxaca

Our 5 1/2 drive to Oaxaca took about 8 hours, and this is partially because of the 156,798 topes (speed bumps) that cover the libre (free) roads, strategically placed at the entrances to restaurants and shops in small towns. Some are perfectly camouflaged rendering our shocks shocked if driving even 1k above 20k.  But on this trip we didn’t get robbed, so, it’s all good.  As a matter of fact, there is really nothing to report at all about the drive except it was stunningly gorgeous. EYE TACO.  In the states of Puebla we saw lush, green mountains, curious gargantuan cacti (whose names are actually Cactus Gigante or Pachycereus Weberi) that resembled, in shape, bunches of flowers (if you use your imagination).  Oaxaca was a dreamy trip on the yellow brick road with layers of distant indigo mountains and rich, red, clay that screamed out, “make pottery out of me!” We passed through charming little towns all centered around crisp chapels and natural stone churches with cornflower blue sky backdrops.  All in all, a very easy drive.

Some roadsigns with peeling words add a challenge to finding the correct route. We were going in the direction of the bottom sign…
GRACIAS for the tope warning.
GRACIAS for the tope warning.
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We’ve arrived – the state of Oaxaca!
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Like the state of Puebla, stunning views abound
Tuk-tuk. I like saying tuk-tuk.
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A heart in the hills

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Young man precariously perched on a truckload of what seems to be corn husks.

Essential road trip food:  bananas (we find these at random roadside stands), PB sandwiches (always carry a container of PB and a loaf of bread), nuts (usually those spicy peanuts we find almost everywhere), and papas, which are probably one of my all time favorite things.

A Week in Ciudad de Oaxaca

Oaxaca (pronounced Wha-Hawk-Ah) is quite a large city.  Conflicting reports put the population numbers between 250,000 and 500,000.  I presume the higher number includes surrounding villages.

We loved our little apartment here in Oaxaca. It’s the Casa Del Barrio in the Jalatlaco neighborhood.  The address is 203 Calle Aldama.  It’s bigger than what we needed (3 bedrooms/3 bathroom) but with the 25% discount special Ricardo, the landlord, was offering, it was a deal we couldn’t pass up.  The price (very good), the location (perfect), the layout (modern and spacious), and the comfort (so awesome to have a kitchen for preparing meals, a big table to do work, a TV with movies for chillin’ out, and comfy bedrooms with fans for good sleeping).  I highly recommend this place for anyone coming to Oaxaca City for more than 5 days as that’s the minimum time needed to rent Casa del Barrio.

Ricardo, our landlord. His sister and her family lived below – a super sweet crew. The second set of stairs goes to the roof.


Living room and dining area
Another terrace outside two of the bedrooms, with hammock. Scott likes his hammocks.
Bedroom #2 – with the big heart
Kitchen chock full of all necessary amenities

Monday, October 7, 2013

Today marks one year since we began our Mexican adventure.  I was going to be platitude-y and write time flies, but it doesn’t really fly, it bounces.  Words cannot describe the outrageous awesome year we’ve had, so hopefully the pictures suffice.

We set out in the morning with Stella exploring the city on foot.  Starting out each new place in this manner gives us an opportunity to get a feel for the layout of the city and helps us more easily navigate a plan de tourista.  Stella was the belle of the ball getting attention from every fourth person.  One little boy at the Zócalo spent nearly 15 minutes smothering her with love and attention.  Many passersby exclaimed, “bonita!”.   Refreshing.

Our jaunt today led us to El Llano Park aka Parque Benito Juarez, the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption (Catedral de Oaxaca), the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán (Church of Santo Domingo), and La Merced Market. The last stop had a more practical objective –  fruits and veggies for our new and temporary home.

Two lions guard the four corners of the park. From 1950-1970 this park was a zoo for African animals.
El Llano is a spacious park located on Avenida Juarez and Calle Pino Suarez
Statue of Benito Juarez, beloved former President
Recycling bins in El Llano Park – yes! There is no recycling at our casa, so we brought our bottles here.
I’d like to know more about this

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption – Located on Valdivieso in el Centro.  Its facade constructed of green cantera stone (common in Oaxacan architecture), and the interior is in Neoclassical style. All of this according to Wikipedia.
This was one of the most stunning altars I’ve ever seen.  The main figure is a statue of Our Lady of the Assumption (Nuestra Señora de al Asunción) which was made in Italy during the Porfirio era.
And here is a statue of my man and my dog
Check out this gorgeous calle!
Stollers strolling down the pedestrian walkway, Macedonio Alcala. I LOVE it when big cities have big swaths of road solely for pedestrians! This pedestrian way connects to Templo Santo Domingo.
Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán – a Baroque ecclesiastical building complex that includes an ethnobotanical garden and an extensive system of courtyards, cloisters and rooms that formerly constituted the monastery.
Jaw dropping first step inside the Templo. Total eye taco.
It shimmers. The altar was sprinkled with flower bouquets.

Dinner at La Olla Restaurante Galeria located in Centro Histórico,  Reforma N° 402, was divine. Claiming to be a socially responsible business, they even have meatless Mondays!  But then again, in Mexico that means beefless Mondays.  Many don’t consider pollos meat.

I inhaled my sopa flora de calabaza (squash flower soup) and tlayuda sin asiento (without lard), and Scott devoured his mole coloradita with Oaxacan tortilla soup.  All recommended dishes according to my extensive research.  And by extensive, I mean Google.  Unfortunately the server forgot to mention fried grasshoppers are a staple ingredient in the Oaxacan tortilla soup.  Most were picked out, but I think a couple accidentally hopped in Scott’s mouth.  We spent the last 4 months rescuing grasshoppers from our casa in San Miguel, and here, in Oaxaca, one can see them on every street corner – fried in chili sauce.  Such a dichotomy.

After dinner, I got stung by a gorgeous light green caterpillar.  Total accident.  He (the caterpillar) was ambling across a dark sidewalk.  I wouldn’t have seen him had my eye not caught his brilliant green body. Upon closer inspection, I saw he had neon green-bluish tufts of prickly hair-like bunches on his body.  Google told me that he may be the Io Moth in the Saturniidae family.  To prevent a future squishing by an unsuspecting foot, I grabbed a couple twigs and pulled him out of harm’s way barely brushing my middle finger against one of those tufts.  Wow.  My finger swelled and just wow.  Walking home I wondered if he was some kind of weird tropical insect whose sting throws his victim into a coma.  I guess not.

Tuesday, October 8, 2013
Jardín Etnobotánico y Museo de Las Culturas de Oaxaca

What a delight to connect with two friends from the states, Annie B and Krissy, this week!  We started our explorations du jour with a tour of the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca – located in Centro Historico and attached to Templo Santo Domingo.  For 100 pesos, I received more than my dinero’s worth.  While the docent went into more detail than I needed, I appreciated the history she provided in relationship to the garden and the plants.Guided tours in English are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 11:00 and 1:00. The Spanish tours are more frequent and less money (50 pesos).

The following photos are from the Ethnobotanical Garden tour:

Peppers
Peppers
Brilliant flowers at every turn
Pochote Tree or Kapok Tree

Mayans honor the Ya’axche or Ceiba Tree as an energy connection with the Cosmos, Earth, and the Underworld; ever present in ceremonies and as a medicine plant, this beautiful tree is were the Maya Gods abide, and so do may forest supernatural creatures and energies. Young Ceiba trees have exotic looking thorny green trunks. ~Source: Yucatanadventure.com 

The Pochote or  Kapok tree is considered the Mayan Tree of Life.  The roots are believed to go down into the underworld, and it represents the structure of the universe.  The story goes that Mixtec Gods shot arrows into the tree and it split.  Out emerged a woman then a man.  Note, the woman came out first.  All parts of this tree were useful: The fibers of the Pochote tree seedpods produce a light, water resistant fiber that has various uses including mattress stuffing, and the wood was once used for making canoes (because these trees grow into monstrosities).  Now the wood is used in the wood carvings characteristic for this region, and the sap resin makes for a delightful incense.  To learn more click here.

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This parasite, the cochineal, would overtake the cacti except someone discovered thousands of years ago that when it's squished its innards can be used to make the crimson (called carmine) dye for textiles. It's also used in food and cosmetics oy. It was a main export (second to silver) for Oaxaca until the 19th century. (photo credit Annie Stockwell)
This parasite, the cochineal, would overtake the cacti except someone discovered thousands of years ago that when it’s squished its innards can be used to make the crimson (called carmine) dye for textiles. It’s also used in food and cosmetics oy. It was a main export (second to silver) for Oaxaca until the 19th century. (photo credit Annie Stockwell)
white flowers
A branch of the Guaje tree – from which Oaxaca gets its name. Guaje pods and seeds were used by native people in Mexico as a source of food and for medicinal purposes. In Mexico the dried seeds are eaten as a snack – roasted and salted (called cacalas). The seeds are also popular in cuisine – ground and added to salsas and guacamole, soups, sauces, and especially moles.
The fiber (Ixley) comes from the leaves of the Maguey (Agave) and is used to make rugs, bags, and sacks. Agua miel, Mezcal, comes from the heart of the plant. Tequila and Mezcal are post-Hispanic distilled drinks.
The fiber (Ixley) comes from the leaves of the Maguey (Agave) and is used to make rugs, bags, and
sacks. Agua miel, Mezcal, comes from the heart of the plant. Tequila and Mezcal are post-Hispanic distilled drinks.

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Girls at garden
Annie B, Krissy and I at the garden: and we didn’t even get in trouble by the strict docent for having those flowers in our hair.

Lunch at La Biznaga,  the Spanish words for the barrel cactus. Yum.  The courtyard appeal of this restaurant lent itself to long, casual conversations.  It was warm and authentic.  The company (friends and hubby) was superb, and the prices were fair.  But most importantly, we tried Pulque, another regional fare.  This one alcoholic, but only slightly.  Dating back to Mexoamerica, pulque comes from the fermented sap of the maguey (agave) plant.  I found it refreshing, a good summer drink.  There’s an awesome store in this restaurant that displays various handicrafts from local artisans.

La Biznaga

Scott getting all Om with his Pulque.
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A first taste of Pulque gets a thumbs up.
Another veggie Tlayuda for me. delish.

Museo de Las Culturas de Oaxaca – 57 pesos The enchanting and must-see-with-more-time monastery, which is now Museo de Las Culturas, is in the building adjoining the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. One of the best regional museums in Mexico, this takes you right through the history and cultures of Oaxaca state up to the present day. Unfortunately for us, all the plaques and other written items were all in Spanish.*I picked up the best map of the city at this Museo – libre.

View of the Ethnobotanical Garden from the Museo de Las Culturas

We ended the day with drinks and table-made salsa y guacamole con chips de maize on the rooftop terrace of  Casa Oaxaca

Wednesday, October 9, 2013
Exploring Local Villages Artesanos 

This was one of my all-time favorite Mexico days – fun and culturally illuminating.  Annie, Krissy, and I, in the care of an amazing and knowledgeable guide, Linda Hanna (Folk Art Tours).  Linda drove us to four small artisanal villages, and she introduced us to the local artisan families who create clay figurines, textiles (backstrap looming), wood carving (alebrijes), and the stunning black pottery.

The towns we visited were all at the 5 o’clock on this map.

Ocotlan de Morelos
RODOLFO MORALES

Our first stop was the town of Ocotlan, birthplace and later home of Rodolfo Morales.Known for his surrealist style and collage work, Rodolfo Morales was a Zapotec who returned to Ocotlan to restore buildings and the cultural heritage of Oaxaca.  Of the many restorations, the Convent of Santo Domingo, in Ocotlán, Oaxaca which was converted into a municipal complex and houses his famous cylindrical art.  Woman are often the focus of his art.  Is it, perhaps, because they are the carriers of culture in Mexico and his experience since a young boy was influenced by woman?  Morales was gay.  Did his sexual orientation have anything to do with the focus of females in his art?  All of these unanswered questions and more.

Krissy and linda
Krissy and Linda with an adorable pooch (photo credit: Annie Stockwell)
Convent of Santo Domingo -blue was the favorite color of Morales

Simple. Lovely. Inviting.
There’s a gallery in the Convento housing much of Morales’ work. We particularly enjoyed this field of art columns.
There are a lot of brides depicted in his work.
A figurine of Morales created by another artist, I think Josefina Aguilar.
And THEN, Linda drove us directly to Morales’ house! We walked right into the kitchen. His sister-in-law was there taking inventory of the many pots of all sizes covering the walls.
Beautiful and slightly unkempt in places, I envisioned his house when he was living here. In typical and authentic Mexican style with ample outdoor living space, it’s built around a large courtyard.
This peacock was resting in the amphitheater, which is a totally normal thing – having an amphitheater in your house and a peacock
Morales’ collage studio has been preserved and untouched since his death in 2001.
Morales “illustrated” (using collage) this out-of-print children’s book Cuentos de Ocotlan.
He used ribbons, fabric, paper, stickers, etc etc etc to create these eye-catching pieces. A man after my own mixed media heart.
Vibrant and engaging, Morales’ work was a pleasure to view.

Ocotlan de Morelos
THE AGUILAR FAMILY
Pottery Figurines

Just a few minutes from the church in Ocotlan, we took a step back in time at Josefina Aguilar’s casa as well as the casas of her other family members who make stunning and unique clay figures.  Their houses, simple and functional, are a cultural experience all to themselves.  But the art, that is incredible. Josefina is possibly the most famous artist in this area for pottery figurines.

fam josefina
The family lives and works in this space
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A primitive but clearly effective kiln
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We had an opportunity to meet the famous Josefina

Santo Tomas Jalieza
THE NAVARRO GÓMEZ FAMILY
Backstrap Looming

Only 25 kilometers from Oaxaca, the next village we visited was Santo Tomas Jalieza, a lovely spot famous for its textiles.  We spent our entire visit at Benito Juarez #42 – the Textiles de Algodon en Telar de Cintura – Crispina Navarro Gomez y Familia.  Muy precioso!  I treasured every moment at the Navarro Gómez home.

Famous for their backstrap looming skills, the Navarro Gómez family is hospitable and downright lovely.  They ooze authentic kindness and warmth.  Their home, with dirt floors and outdoor WC, is simple and decorated by nature – flowering plants, tall shade trees and turkeys.  Their products are of exceptionally high quality at very reasonable prices.  I  suppose because we were the only people there and each of us bought a bag of goodies, the family sat us down and fed us plain Tlayudas and Chapiles (I didn’t spell this correctly, but it was an herb with squash) with Aveno tea (oats, cinnamon, sugar).  I entertained the notion of moving in with them.  Two of the sisters walked us to the door as if we were company leaving their home.  How can one not hug and kiss such hospitable people?  One cannot not.

Backstrap looming looks difficult and hard on the back.
Their salon or sales room.
Crispina working her magic.
Oh the patience it requires. Not sure I’d have it in me, but I sure would like to try.
Gorgeous.
It’s not very often when I’m one of the tall people in the crowd.
Tlayudas and Chapiles (sp)
THIS is their gorgeous home – almost completely outdoors.
El bano – the right wall is made with Jumex (juice) boxes
Ines y Mariana sending us off.

San Martin Tilcajete
JACOBO and MARIA ANGELES OJEDA FAMILY
Carved Wood Alebrijes

Our first stop in San Martin Tilcajete was here (above photo) we headed off to the Angeles Ojeda family home.Using the soft Copal wood and taking what may be up to a year to dry the carved piece (and clear it of bugs) and painting with natural colors, Jacobo Ojeda is a master of his trade, Carved Wood Alebrijes. Jacobo’s home, gorgeous with enclaves of painters (using natural paint) working on various pieces – owls or catrinas or some other unique form, his beautiful, bright, and inviting. One not only finds herself surprised and enamored to see the artist walking around hugging new visitors, but to know she is actually at his establishment (employing 50+ people including his Aunt who cooks for everyone) that produces this world-class work.

Krissy and Kenda lovin’ on the adorable Jacobo
The painters, many young adults and teens (teachers are currently on strike), likely many are family members, diligently working.

San Bartolo Coyotepec
MATEO HERNANDEZ FAMILY
Barro Negro Pottery

Abraham Mateo Hernandez is adorable.  Celebrating his 79th birthday, we sang Happy Birthday to him in perfect Spanglish.  His family is famous for the black pottery.  We received a most complete demonstration with his son making a bowl in less than 15 minutes and his daughter (or maybe granddaughter?) cutting the designs freehand.  Quite impressive.

Home and shop of Abraham Mateo Hernandez
Annie B and Krissy casing out the joint for some black pottery goods

Did I mention she is doing this freehand?
A slab of clay turned bowl in less than 15 minutes. He is using two plates stacked on top of another (inverse) and his hands in place of a wheel.

Abraham using quartz to polish the pottery.  The black color comes from the smoke in the special kiln.Because our guide, Linda, is friendly and familiar with these families, we were welcomed into their homes and were even offered food and beverages.  Most impressive to me is the kindness and generosity of these different families.  The prices, for you shoppers, were very reasonable and sometimes incredible, and the cultural experience, for those of you seeking a local flavor and feel, was absolutely memorable…divine.

The day was topped off with a rainbow as shown from our rooftop terrace.

Thursday, October 10, 2013
Monte Albán

To get there:  take a bus or colectivo
Get the driver who hangs out in front of Hotel Rivera del Angel (Calle Mina #518). His name is Gerardo -he’ll charge 25 pesos one way or less if business is slow.

Ticket to Monte Albán:  57 pesos

From 300 – 500 AD, Monte Albán, one of the earliest cities of Mesoamerica, is also considered the pre-eminent Zapotec socio-political and economic center.  I’d like to write more about this awesome place, but I’m tired.  Maybe at a future time. You can read more about it on Wikipedia.  In the meantime, hope you enjoy the photos of this extraordinary place with the staggering views.

A big foot, some high stairs, and a little man
The valley below
Galería de los Danzantes – male figures in “dynamic” positions
Gal pals
Very chido yellow moth with black and gray spots
Scott impressing the ladies with his knowledge of stuff
Obelisk – part of a sun dial
Krissy reaching to the heavens…
We were harangued nonstop by vendors of Mexican tchotchkes.
Waiting for the bus

Dinner was at Las Quince Letras (The 15 Letters) at 300 Abasolo in El Centro.  Lovely courtyard atmosphere and muy delicioso food.  Finally, we were able to get the Chiles en Nogada.  A seasonal dish from Puebla, this is hard to get as it is usually just available the month of September.  Chiles en Nogada is made with a Poplano chile topped with walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds.  Traditionally it is made with a variety of meat, but we were able to get a veggie version, which was magnifico.  The veggies were cooked perfectly, and the dish was a tastebud delight.

Chiles en Nogada is a beautiful dish. This photo doesn’t do it justice. They call it the dish of the Mexican flag: Green, White, and Red

Friday (October 11) and Saturday (October 12)

Templo de San Felipe Neri

With several items still on our list of see and do, we will be leaving this town with unfinished business.  I guess we’ll just have to return.  We spent Friday exploring parts of town that were left unseen including numerous churches, and I spent Saturday exploring los mercados.  Following in the footsteps of mis amigas, I went to la tienda La Niña de las Posadas de Oaxaca on Indepeendencia 405 to purchase some milagros.

We were leaving the church when this awesome young man, Angel, opened up a dialogue with us.  He spoke perfect English and educated us on the church while his Mother and brother stood by, patiently.Angel told us how Benito Juarez was married in Templo de San Felipe Neri in 1843.  He told us how the name Oaxaca came from the Guaje Tree and that Guejacak (the place where the Guaje Tree grows) was given the name from the Spanish. I later learned that all transpired post independence in 1821. What a delight to come across people like Angel.  I only regret we didn’t explore the cemetery behind the church.

Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora la Soledad – 17th century church with baroque facade – 3 1/2 blocks west of the Alameda.
Plaza outside Basilica Soledad – all the vendors sold flavored/colored water that tasted horrific. It was like the syrup the vendors put on Italian ice. That seems to be a thing here in Oaxaca.

The Basilica de la Soledad stands where the image of Oaxaca’s patron saint, TheVirgin of Soledad (Virgin of Solitude), miraculously appeared (so the story goes) in1543 in a donkey’s pack. The Virgin was later adorned with enormous worldly riches. Those riches were stolen in the 1990’s by thieves who took her 2kg gold crown, a huge pearl and several hundred diamonds. But then again, what would a solitary virgin really need with all that loot?

Templo y Convento de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves – There are about 15 notable churches in Oaxaca, and we saw about half of them.
I set out on my own In search of Mercado Sanchez Pascuas
On Rufino Tamayo Street – what appears to be an aqueduct and a lovely plaza
This giant paper lolipop was the only living thing in the Plaza Rufino Tamayo (that’s my name for it)
What a pleasant surprise to discover that Oaxaca is the land of chocolate
Mercado 20 de Noviembre – anything you need and more!
It was a dank maze of vendors and restaurants – produce, shoes, clothes, music, household goods…
We saw this young girl, Veronica, in 3 or 4 different places selling her father’s art which is painted on Amate bark. She was so precioso. I had to make a purchase.
Lots and lots of flowers
Entire families tending to their space
Lots and lots of tchotchkes
THIS is the mercado where one can get Tejate
Tejate: A maize and cocoa beverage that is served room temp (and traditionally in a gourd) and is quite delish. I watched one woman make the “paste”. She was up to her elbows in the creamy goodness.
This sweet, old man with the funky glasses had a mouth full of rotted teeth and no shoes. I gave him some dinero and asked permission to take this photo. Like with all big cities, there are some very poor people in this city. Sad.
A wedding parading toward Santo Domingo! Now I know the purpose of that giant paper lollipop thingy I saw earlier in the day.
B*E*A*U*T*I*F*U*L
Have I mentioned how much I love weddings? Especially these with the traditional dress and ritual of everyone walking together toward the church.
Goofing off while waiting for dinner.

Dinner at La Casa del Tio Guero on Garcia Vigil (#715) was only remarkable because of the 16 year old server, Giovanni.  The food was tasty enough, but we were expecting an explosion of flavors.  We had sopa Condé de frijol molido, con tortilla frita.  Scott had the Mole Amarillo Vegetariano con arroz (rice), and I had the prehispanic Mole Chichilo Vegetariano con arroz (rice).  The flavours of the mole were fabulous, especialy the Chichilo, but the veggies were overcooked.  To date this week:  We had FOUR of the 7 Moles of Oaxaca. 

Scott pouring a glass of Jamaica (Hibiscus flower drink) and Kenda getting impatient and creative with her photos using the cheap-o small camera.
Our adorable, articulate, soft-spoken waiter, Giovanni, 16
A band playing at the plaza off of Garcia Vigil

We had our Mexican night of debauchery here in Oaxaca.  Well, not debauchery, exactly, we stayed out until 10:30. We’re not 20 anymore.  Or even 30.  And one of us isn’t even in his 40’s.  But knowing this is the land of fine Mezcal, we went out in search of a good Mezcaleria.  I wanted to find Cuish, but the bar was too far out of our reach.  We found a Mezcaleria, well, we found many actually, but the one we chose is called Mexquite.  We were looking for a rooftop vista, and that’s what we got – a beautiful view of Santo Domingo.  We sampled two different mezcals and realized we wouldn’t make good Mexicans.OaxacaI fell in love with this city.  Putting aside the fabulous weather (night rains included), the food, the culture, the people, the architecture, the 14 million churches, the the the…it’s a must-see place for anyone coming near Southern Mexico.  Perhaps one day we’ll return…

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Even More Things to do in Oaxaca
We simply didn’t have time to visit every place we wanted to see or a few of the restaurants we read about.
So next time: 

Must-see Markets

  • Mercado de Artesanias (lots of textiles)
  • Mercado Benito Juarez (only because it’s chaotic and chock full of great people watching – otherwise if you have a need for territorial space, don’t go here)
  • Mercado La Merced (lots of produce)
  • Mercado Sanchez Pascuas (Tamales)
  • Mercado 20 de Noviembre (Tejate and anything you could possibly need)

Food and beverages to try in Oaxaca (can all be made vegetarian)

  • The 7 Moles (negro quintessential, coloradiot, rojo, amarillo, verde, chichilo, manchamantel)
  • Tamales/Tamal (go to the Tamales Cande at Sanchez Pascuas Mercado)
  • Tlayudas
  • Tejate
  • Mezcal – You want to try Mezcal in Oaxaca? Click here.
  • Cuish at 712 Calle Diaz Ordaz
  • To learn more about what to eat and drink in Oaxaca go here.
  • To learn more about how to go about eat Vegan in Oaxaca go here.


    More on Oaxaca

If you’d like to visit some of the villages and help provide microloans for local woman, check out www.envia.org.  Envia handles transportation, lunch, and takes visitors to the women’s homes where they share about their businesses (textiles, food, etc).  Your 650 peso (about $50.00 US) fee goes directly as a loan payment.

Oaxaca quickly became one of my favorite places in Mexico. The city, alone, is worthy of a full week’s visit. If you go to Oaxaca, give yourself the time to fully explore the city and all its many flavors and then give yourself some more time to explore the surrounding villages.

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*Photos and stuff*  Please contact me for permission to use images and text for commercial or private use.

To see more of my posts from Mexico, see below.

Mexico Post #1, Me and My Trimalleolar go to Mexico with my Husband and our Pooch, click this here
Mexico Post #2, Dos Americanos y Su Perro en Mexico, click this here
Mexico Post #3, Feliz Ano Nuevo 2013, click here
Mexico Post #4, Ballenas, Ballenas Hermosas, click here
Mexico Post #5, Una Visita Morelia, click here
Mexico Post #6, Mariposas Monarcas!, click here
Mexico Post #7, Los Pueblos de Patzcuaro, Paracho, y Tzintzuntzan, click here
Mexico Post #8, La pintoresca ciudad de San Miguel de Allende, click here
Mexico Post #9, Guanajuato, Guanajuato, click here
Mexico Post #10, Back to Sayulita and Jaime Visits!, click here
Mexico Post #11, Semana Santa y Semana Pasqua, click here
Mexico Post #12, Semana de Animales, click here
Mexico Post #13, Semana de Amigos y Amigas, click here
Mexico Post #14, Frida y Diego, click here
Mexico Post #15, Adiós Sayulita, click here
Mexico Post #16, Living and Grinning in San Miguel de Allende, click here
Mexico Post #17, Puddle Jumping in San Miguel de Allende, click here
Mexico Post #18, Guanajuato International Film Festival, click here
Mexico Post #19, Ciudad de Mexico/Mexico City: Colonia Condesa, Colonia Coyoacán, y La Casa Azul, click here
Mexico Post #20, Ciudad de Mexico/Mexico City: Chapultapec y Centro Historico, click here
Mexico Post #21, Ciudad de Mexico/Mexico City: Museo Nacional de Antropologia y Templo Mayor, click here
Mexico Post #22, Living the Dream in San Miguel de Allende, click here
Mexico Post #23,  Viva la Independencia! click here
Mexico Post #24,  Adios San Miguel, click here
Mexico Post #25,  Valle de Bravo y Teploztlán, click here
THIS IS Mexico Post #26,  Ciudad de Oaxaca, click here
Mexico Post #27,  50 Shades of Green: On the road from Oaxaca to Chiapas, click here
Mexico Post #28,  San Cristóbal de las Casas, click here
Mexico Post #29,  The Almost Halloween Edition:  Dark Mountains,  Foggy Cliffs, Witches, Jungles and Shamans, click here
Mexico Post #30, Veracruz, Tampico y Estados Unidos, click here

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